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| The charming wine village of Niedermorschwihr in the heart of Alsace AOC. |
When we think of terroir we concentrate on geology, vineyard positioning, soil types and climates. Often overlooked are the political land disputes fought above the bedrock we spend most of our time studying. Alsace is one such wine region that has been shaped by centuries of conflicts as much as, if not more so, than traditional decisions made in the vineyards. Although there had been confrontations amongst competing empires, and a Germanic influence has always existed, the region had been French until the Franco-Prussian War of 1871 when neighboring Germany took control of the region and was not ceded back to France until the end of World War I. The region was once again claimed by Germany in the beginning of World War II and didn't return to France until the end of the war. The centuries long German influence remains in both the language and its architecture. It can also be seen on bottles to this day, both in their shape, labeling and the grape varieties used.
Alsace is located in the northeastern corner of France and shares its borders with Germany and Switzerland. It is France's smallest region, covering a narrow strip of land 75 miles long and 3 miles wide and one of the last wine growing areas to receive AOC status. The region is divided into 2 départements, the Bas-Rhin in the north, and the southern Haut-Rhin, where you'll find over two-third's of Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. The region itself occupies a north-south trending rift zone, which is a downdrop of the Earth's crust between the Vosges Mountain and the Black Forest. This unique rift along with its proximity to the majestic mountains, formed a rain shadow effect for vineyards, protecting them from rain carrying western winds, thus making Alsace one of the driest regions in France. The rift and its fault system along with erosion created an array of varying rock layers that form the region's diverse range of soil. While most viticultural areas have vines growing on just a few different layers of soil, Alsace has 13 major soil types: granite, gneiss, gypsum, limestone, loam, loess, marl, quartz, schist, sand, sandstone, slate, and volcanic. These exist either on their own or in combination. Unlike Burgundy or Bordeaux which has less grape diversity and a limited range of soils, Alsace takes full advantage of its complexity and highlights 7 major grape varieties. This range of terroir is best expressed in its white wines; making Alsace the only region in France to produce more white wine than red.
GRAPE VARIETALS
It is estimated that there were over 100 grape varieties planted in Alsace in the mid 19th century. These varietals were often planted indiscriminately and mainly became blended white wine. Many factors contributed to the downsizing of the varietals. Like many other regions, the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century wiped out most of the vineyards. Those that weren't wiped out by the epidemic, were ripped out during the Franco-Prussian War or by German occupation in World War I, and especially in World War II. Aside from forced removal, trial and error by wine makers also helped narrow the varietals down to the ones that we enjoy today. Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Gewurztraminer are the most important grapes in the region, often referred to as the noble varietals. These 4 grapes are the only ones that are allowed in Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Chasselas, Pinot Blanc (aka Klevner) are also widely planted and bottled as single varietal wines or used in blends. Pinot Noir is the only red and rosé wine made in the region.
ALSACE AOC
Alsace is somewhat of an oddity in the AOC classification system in that the grape variety is listed prominently on the label, a common practice used in German wines. The Alsace AOC was established in 1962. The laws allow for the grapes to come from any vineyard within Alsace and can be white, red or rose, dry or sweet, blend or single varietal. Wines with the grape variety listed on the label are comprised of 100% of the varietal. Geographical information, vineyard site or commune are also allowed to be indicated on the label. Many winemakers in recent years have been placing these
lieu-dits on labels. Since no sites are permitted to label Premier Cru status wine, this is an alternative used to designate a higher quality bottling. By law, Alsace AOC wines are required to be bottled in German-like, long-neck shaped bottle known as flutes.
EDELZWICKER & GENTIL
If no grape variety is listed on the label, an Alsace wine may be a blend. Blends were actually the tradition in the region before single grape varietal bottling became the better selling norm. Edelzwicker or "noble mixture" are now synonymous with inexpensive blended wine. These wines have very relaxed rules. They are not required to list the vintage, or list any grapes or percentages used on labels. Gentil is a term used to indicate a superior quality blend. It require half of the cuvée to incorporate the noble grape varieties, while the remainder can be composed of any other Alsace AOC varietal. The price point is definitely not a marker for level of quality. Often times these blends highlight the alluring aromatics of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and/or Muscat and combine them with the mineral driven textures of Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Auxerrois and/or Pinot Gris. A truly complete, ready to drink wine generally priced at $20 or under.
ALSACE GRAND CRU AOC
With the exception of Sylvaner and its historical importance in the Zotzenberg Grand Cru vineyard, only the 4 noble grapes are allowed to make single varietal Alsace Grand Cru wine. This AOC was created in 1975 and as of 2006 there are now
51 Alsace Grand Cru sites. Altenberg de Bergheim and Kaefferkopf Grand Cru are also notable exception since they are allowed to make blended Grand Cru wine with specific prescribed percentages of grapes. There are yield limits on the amount of wine that can be produced in any given Grand Cru as well as mandatory hand-harvesting. Minimum sugar levels are higher than Alsace AOC wines, with minimums of 11% abv for Riesling and Muscat, 12.5% for Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer with certain Grand Cru requiring higher amounts. Alsace Grand Cru does, indeed, highlight the regions unique terroir, but not without controversy. Although the applied labeling is far from the insignificance of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, by no means does it have the same rich history and gravitas as that of Burgundy Grand Cru. The rapid development, lack of Premier Cru level wines, and sheer amount of vineyards designated Alsace Grand Cru sites has been notably criticized by many Alsatian producers, with some choosing to not include their admissible Alsace Grand Cru AOC on their labels.
CRÉMANT D'ALSACE AOC
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NV Clément Klur
Crémant d'Alsace Brut |
Crémant d'Alsace was granted AOC status in 1976. Nearly 1/4 of the wine produced in Alsace is Crémant as it is immensely popular amongst French consumers. Much like all other French Crémant producers, the traditional champagne method of secondary fermentation must be employed. The wines must spend a minimum of 9 months on the lees, and the finished wines are made in either brut (very dry), sec (dry), or demi-sec (medium-dry) styles. All of the grapes permitted for Alsace AOC wines may be used, and although it is not permitted for still white wines, Chardonnay is allowed in Crémant d'Alsace AOC wines. Most of these wines are multi-varietal blends, but if it is a mono varietal sparkler, the grape is required to be identified on the label. The rules for sur-lie aging along with the aromatics and texture of Alsace's grapes create a complex toasty, nutty, flinty style not often found in other French Crémants.
VENDANGE TARDIVE & SÉLECTIONS DE GRAINS NOBLES
In the mid 80's, 2 designations for sugar levels were allowed to be included on labels to imply sweetness in both Alsace AOC and Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines. The term Vendange Tardive, or late harvest wines, was first coined in Alsace. The grapes are allowed to hang on the vine, and aren't picked until they begin to dehydrate, thus concentrating sugar contents to create a sweeter wine. Sélections de Grains Nobles is the sweeter of the 2 categories. The grapes used in this style have been affected by noble rot, aka botrytis. Only the 4 noble grapes may be used. The grapes have to be hand-harvested and there are minimum must weight requirements required at time of harvest.
WHITE LIGHT
White wines are the main output in Alsace and in the neighboring wines from the Baden region in Germany, less than 20 miles east. Their vineyards feature similar varietals yet the wines produced taste as if they were thousands of miles apart. Baden's Rieslings are lean and racy, Alsace's are opulent; Baden's Pinot Gris wines are often aged in new oak barrels, while Alsace's are aged in antique old barrels that prevent any wood flavors or oxidation, allowing for the musky. spicy qualities of the grape to come center stage. The preference is up to the consumer, yet the differences are quite clear. What also becomes apparent, despite the commonalities described, is that you are tasting French wine. White wines are excellent terroir storytellers and there are many chapters to be read in Alsace. Although wars, language and architecture have greatly influenced Alsace on the surface, the best light for your terroir reading can still be found underground.
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