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| Native Wine Grapes Of Italy by Ian D'Agata pictured alongside study aids. |
After spending 13 years interviewing winemakers, walking vineyards, studying available research, chatting with the locals and tasting wines, Ian D’Agata has provided us with the most comprehensive compass for navigating the most difficult, but rewarding, wine country in the world: Italia!
The Native Wine Grapes Of Italy addresses over 500 different native Italian grape varieties and provides a clear account of each grape’s origin, growing regions, clones, how they're identified and classified; and more importantly, their taste profile alongside suggestions for the best available producers. Although the information is encyclopedic, D’Agata’s wit, personal stories, and local anecdotes make the seemingly daunting subject of enology approachable.
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| 2006 Le Rocche Del Gatto Spigau Crociata Pigato |
The first part of the book deals with ampelology (the art and science of grape identification) and the origins of Italy’s grape varieties. Thanks to
modern DNA testing, varieties that were once believed to be different grapes are scientifically proven to be the same strands that have been given different names by locals...or have they? D’Agata writes: “Vermentino is actually Pigato. Wait a minute: no, Pigato is not Vermentino. After years debating the issue, researchers, wine experts and producers in Italy all agree to disagree on the subject...Being facetious, you might say that’s because the grapes are both Favorita. No, wait: they’re all Piccabon (a wrong attribution: we now know Piccabon is identical to Vernaccia di San Gimignano). And so the story goes on. And on.” Upon reading this, the famous last words to my favorite Roman Polanski movie came to mind: “Forget it, Jake. It’s Chinatown.”
The difficulties that arise in simply correctly naming an Italian grape variety are clearly expressed in the case of Vermentino. However, D’Agata goes on to detail how much more complex genomes are than were once thought. Although science has a number of benefits available to us in these times, it’s important to remember that we’re not drinking science. Pigato/Vermentino/Favorita may not be proven at this time to be different varieties, but what is known, is that the resulting wines do taste different. So what’s in a name?
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| 2012 Tenuta Di Castellaro 'Bianco Pomice' Malvasia Delle Lipari Blend. |
Part two kicks off with the grape groups and families, which is the key to unlocking the mysteries of Italian wine. Case in point, the Greco group. The Greco Bianco variety from Calabria has been proven to be Malvasia di Lipari. D’Agata writes: “For locals and wine lovers everywhere, it’s still Greco Bianco, and when in Calabria, you’ll receive nothing but stern looks or condescending smiles should you refer to the variety by any other name.” To put this into perspective, as a native San Franciscan, I never called Candlestick Park, 3Com Park or Monster Park. It was always Candlestick Park, or The Stick; even though its original name was actually Harney Stadium.
The rest of the book lists each variety from Abbuoto to Zibibbo. This is when the book becomes more of an essential tool. There are brief descriptors of origins, synonyms for each variety, taste profiles and recommended producers. Herein lies the true purpose of the book: Drink Italian Wine! With so many Italian grapes out there, enjoying the wines of these lesser known varieties and sharing them with friends is the real reward. As much as I love Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, discovering that I now also like Fumin, Ruchè, Vuillermin, Centesimino, and Coda di Volpe Bianca is as rewarding as enjoying an old bottle of Barolo. Armed with this book, going outside of your comfort zone and spending the money on an unknown variety doesn’t seem like much of a gamble at all.
Cin Cin!
Ian D’Agata is a Rome-based wine writer and educator who writes regularly for Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar newsletter and for Decanter magazine. He is the Scientific Advisor of Vinitaly International and is now also Scientific Director of the Vinitaly International Academy, and is the author of The Ecco Guide To The Best Wines Of Italy.
Hardcover, 640 Pages
ISBN: 9780520272262
University Of California Press
May 2014
$50.00
